Day #24. 10/3/13. Turn of Events

Dear Family & Friends,

Yesterday while walking to the "Iron Cross" I twisted my ankle in a rocky hilly area of the path. I believe that it is a bad sprain. We stopped and stayed in a hotel last night and I wrapped it with an ace wrap and elevated my leg, but it has continued to swell. (There was no ice available).  Long story short, I cannot walk on my ankle right now. 

I called Jade's taxi service and asked them if I wore the pack and sat quietly and didn't talk could I please go with her in the back of the van.  "No, Señora!"

So, we are ending our Camino today with  plans to return next year and finish the camino to Santiago. 

We have been on the camino since september 10th. We have walked 170 miles in the rain, cold, heat and perfect weather. It has been an awesome trip of a lifetime.  

We are making plans to go home right now. Sam is an awesome travel agent, as well as navigator, so he is working out the planes, trains and automobiles to get us back to the good old USA. I told Sam he can go on without me but he wants to wait and go together next year. Ahhhhhh. 

Hey, since we have had to contact civilization today, we hear for the first time that the national government has shut down services!  Pilgrims don't watch TV so we've  not seen any news. We didn't miss it either. 

I will probable post one more blog from the airport before I sign off. Thanks again for all your support and encouragement. Your energy put giddy-up in my gallop. 

Jade got a seat on the train back to Madrid.  

Day #23 La Cruz de Ferro

There is always a rainbow after a storm. This is the view from our hostel in Foncebadon   

Mary by the cross on the right. 

This simple iron cross sits on top of a plain pole and marks the highest elevation on the Camino at 4934 feet.  As per tradition, Pilgrims bring stones or some meaningful item from home to leave at the foot of the cross.  Pilgrims believe that sins will be forgiven here and blessings will be bestowed if you stop here and reflect on your life. 

I brought Gary's ashes and spread them at the base of the cross. Then I sat down and had a good cry. 

Sunrise today

 

View from the Iron Cross

The Camino 

Sam by the cross 

Private hostel "convento" in Foncebadon where we stayed. Dormitory got a Force Rating of 0.5. 

Day 22 - October 1 - Our Big Climb

Today was a tough day on the Camino.  We knew it would be challenging since we were scheduled to walk 8 miles while climbing 1500 ft in elevation.  What we were not expecting was the worst weather we have had so far.  It was steadily raining or drizzling almost all of the 4.5 hrs we were on the trail today to reach the mountain village of Foncebadon.  

Conditions were sloppy but our spirits were high!  Mary handled it all like a real trooper.  We arrived at noon and since our hostel was not open yet headed to the bar for a Bailey's (Mary) and a cerveza (Sam).

This is the only picture from today because it was raining too hard. 

Yesterday:  there were only two places to eat in our village. We had drinks at this cowboy bar but lunch and dinner at the other restaurant that was 10 feet away. The population of this village was <50 people. 

 Spanish foosball players have their arms out. 

Last night we had a pilgrim dinner with 2 German brothers (Dominic & David-in their 20s) and a British 70 year old lady named Margaret.  Margaret was traveling by herself and started the Camino in Leon. Dom and David started in St Jean, France just like we did except they drove there from Germany. They have walked the entire way without buses or train rides.  

When we are at dinner with Pilgrims, the conversation naturally turns to "why are you walking the Camino?"  The boys said they had finished their masters (education) and bachelor degrees (architect) and were taking a break before getting a job.  They feel the Camino is a good place for reflection and making life decisions. Margaret lost her husband 3 years ago and has wanted to do this Camino for the past 2 years. She knows people in England who have done it.  She couldn't find anybody to walk with her so she decided to go alone. Her six children were very upset that she was going solo. I give her a lot of credit for being 70 years old and walking to Santiago from Leon alone.  You go, girl!

It is a common theme to hear pilgrims say, "I couldn't stop thinking about the Camino. I had to do it!"  That explains how Sam & I have felt over the last 18 months. Last night We all discussed having felt a calling to walk the Camino.   Before this trip, Sam & I found a great deal of meaning in this quote:

"Before a new chapter is begun, the old one has to be finished. Stop being who you were, and change into who you are. "       

         Paulo Coelho

Adios. 

October 1, 2013. Midterm Report

Memorials along The Way. We see many of these pictures, crosses and memories of loved ones of people who have walked the Camino but have died. It's very touching.  

Early morning dew

We see pilgrims with HUGE backpacks on the trail. I don't know how they do it!  I wanted to give them my taxis service card, but I couldn't catch up to them. 

Sam and I are very academic, we decided to post a midterm report card...self assessment. 

Mary's Midterm Pilgrim Report Card:

Works & Plays Well with Others:          A-

Physical Education.                             C

Home Economics. (Bunk area tidy)      A

Reflections (needs improvement)         C-

European History (I read all signs).       B

World Religions (needs improvement)  C

Pilgrim Code & Ethics                          B

Self Discovery 101                               B-

Now that I have discovered how to survive as a Pilgrim on the Camino, I'm hoping that I can devote more time to reflection and answering the question of "Why am I here"  "Is this just a very long walk or a pilgrimage" _____________________________

Day 21 - El Ganso - Mid Term Report

Today is the half way point in our journey time wise.  We have walked 21 days in September since leaving St Jean Pied de Port on Sept 10.  We have a flight booked from Santiago to Madrid on October 22 so we have 21 days in October available to walk.  We walked 9 miles today in 4 hours bringing our total miles walked to 160.  We also passed the halfway point in distance today since we have 155 miles to go to reach Santiago!

We have planned our remaining itinerary for the next three weeks.  It includes 16 days of walking, 3 days for rest and 2 spare days.  We have been told that the Camino will get more crowded the last 70 miles (past Sarria) since that is the minimum distance one can walk and still earn your compostela or certificate of completion for the journey.

Arriving in El Ganzo

Foggy morning on trail

This is basically an abandoned village that was active during Medieval times because of the pilgrims.  Pretty dumpy town. 

Hmmmm...see what I mean.  

Because we were the first to arrive to the hostel today, we got the 'honeymoon suite'. It's a double bed under the metal steps just off to the side of 10 bunk beds within the dormitory. There are 18 bunk beds upstairs. When we chose this bed, We forgot to consider the noise of all these people hoofing it up the stairs. It sounds like steel drums overhead. Lights are turned off at 10:00 pm, so hopefully it will be quiet. 

Day #20: more pictures.

Bell tower on small church across from hostel

Front of hostel

Friendly French woman pulling her pack on the Camino. I stopped to chat with her. She is camping along the Way with her husband so she has more gear than most pilgrims. It seems difficult to drag that thing over these rocky hilly roads. 

View of Astorga as we approach the city limits. 

Bell ringers in the town square. 

Day #20. Astorga

Entry way into Astorga. 

We walked 10.4 miles in 5 hours today. We have walked a total of 151 miles in 16 days on the Camino so far. We arrived at the hostel at 1:00pm and got a first-come-first-serve PRIVATE room for 5€. It costs 5€ each whether you   get a private room or dormitory with 20 people stacked together.  Jade took a cab.

 I'm sore. Sam is fine. Sam is always fine. Usually Sam walks the 8-11 miles with me dragging ass behind him, gets into the hostel, drops his pack, takes a shower and says,

 "So, do you want to walk around town and see the sights?"  

After my shower after arrival to the hostel, I'm usually in my pajamas curled up in my sleeping bag and ready for siesta.  I'm refreshed after a 2-3 hour rest. Then I'm ready to go out for drinks, dinner and any sight seeing within a two block radius of home. 

Local people harvesting grapes 

I stopped to chat with this guy picking grapes. He did not know English. He gave us a huge handful of white and Concord grapes to eat on the Camino. 

Today's hostel--note the sink in the room!

How did this dog get on the roof?

Roman ruins excavated from the center of Astorga. Dated from 1st-4th century AD. 2000 years ago!  Note the mosaic to the right of picture. 

Day #19

Ancient Roman bridge leading into the village

I can't fill in the name of this village because I forgot where the hell we are today. 

Sam is asleep so I can't ask the navigator. But I can tell you about our hostel & dinner group tonight!

We walked 9.2 miles today in the pouring rain. I didn't want to wear my rain pants when we left this morning because they make me sweat. Instead I got soaking wet through my hiking pants, but I didn't get sweaty. Sam wore his rain pants--I bet nobody's surprised with that news. It only rained 3 hours of our 5 hour walk so that was nice. 

We are at a private hostel call "Verde" in Hospital de _______.  We have a private room with twin beds for 12€ each.  We could have stayed in the 14 bunk bed dormitory for 9€ each,  but we splurged tonight. Its so rare to get a private room in a hostel.  1€=$1.40 approx    

Dinner was a vegetarian meal and offered to pilgrims for a "donation". Sam's sister-in-law, Leisa, would have loved it since she is a vegetarian. It's very Buddha here. It's our first Veg. Meal since we've been in Spain. Leisa would starve on the Camino. She is still having nightmares over the picture of the pig hooves at the counter of the lunch cafe. 

We had miso & orzo soup, vegetable & rice curry and banana/pear cake. Everything was homemade by our hostel manager/chef. She does not use any animal products at all. They are all green hence the name "Verde".   It was very good. 

At the dinner table tonight we had 7 people from 4 countries speaking 3 different languages.  It was quite a challenge. Thank you to my sister, Nancy, for downloading Google Translator for me. It was fun to play with the App at the table. We took turns passing    around my IPhone and speaking German, English and Spanish directly into the phone and showing everyone the written translation. Everyone laughed and thought it was amazing. The Australian young woman downloaded it at the table onto her smartphone. 

Also, thank you to Nancy for setting up this blog for us. I never thought it would be so fun to blog!  I'm not a good sleeper, so I have always read books in the evening & the middle of the night to get sleepy. Books are too heavy for the Camino so now I write instead of read. Thanks big sister!  I love you so much!   

Stopping to smell the sunflowers.  We have passes acres and acres of sunflowers but they are all past their prime except for this little guy by the side of the road. 

The Way

Rain, rain, rain. 

The cornfields have replaced the vineyards. Corn isn't nearly as much fun to nibble on while walking on the trail. 

Adios!

Continued day #18 Mosaic

More pictures from today. 

As you entered this village we found this beautiful mosaic of ancient pilgrims on the Camino made from tiny squares of granite tile. Date:1994

Day# 18 Camino Chic.

Dressing on the Camino is a challenge on so many different levels. When you first come down the catwalk in st. Jean Pied de Pants in France , the pressure is mounting because France sets the tone for the 2013 pilgrimage to Santiago. When following the bright yellow arrows for 500 miles, other pilgrims are judging you. "Does my backpack make my ass look big?". "No, your ass makes your ass look big."  Maybe you shouldn't eat so many Oreos and M&Ms?  

This pressure to perform leads pilgrims to buy super expensive 'superlite' fabrics, gortex waterproof, head lamp like a cool miner, outerware, "Tilly" hats. North face and REI shirts and rip off pants, Solomon trekking gloves & Leki or black diamond trekking poles that will transport you across the miles like "Beam Me Up, Scotty !" Special boots that costs $200 each foot because 'you are worth it'. Do you want a priest to pass you on the Camino ?  Hell no!  Eat my dust,Father.  "I'll see you in confession Mary Elizabeth Regina"!  

And then you need the latest & greatest backpack that will hold all your stuff that you just bought at REI and still require that it only weighs 10% of your weight. So you buy a bigger pack than the REI salesman recommended because "you can handle it..after all, God will help you."  You also buy every gadget to enhance your Camino experience:  secret money belt, gorilla tripod,super light camera, journals, guidebooks, smart wool everything, electronic water purifier and EXofficio  underwear. 

In the hostels, everyone runs around in their underpants. Guys & girls, old and young. Now I'm a normal American modesty level. If wish I had known this shower room etiquette on coed showers, I would not have been so shocked.  But now I'm used to it and who cares? 

Here Sam is wearing his chic blue rain gear.  Looking smart and a bit like St James  with that new beard. "Godspeed , Sam!"

Some Camino couples match their clothes, backpacks, shoes and hats. This is not Camino Chic!  We are not marching into France to seize the castle. 

Here we stand in a picture of the modern day pilgrim. Highly prepared, safe and secure in our ability to not just follow the pack, but lead the pack to the cathedral in Santiago.  

Here I am heading into town for a

Sangria. I am wearing my 'going out clothes'.  When I return to my bunk, the same clothes miraculously turn into pajamas, and then reincarnated back  into Camino hiking clothes in the morning.  When you only have 2 sets of clothes, your imagination is your best friend. 

Day #18. 9/27/2013. Camino cuisine

Today we walked 8.5 miles in 4 hours to the small village of Villar de Mazariffe.  Jade took the limo service. We made this reservation in a private hostel last night and got a private room for 9€ each.  (Imagine me doing my happy dance).  The room is slightly larger than my laundry room with bunk beds but it has a window.   The hostel is directly over the bar...very convenient since it's pouring rain all afternoon.  Sam and I played 2 games of chess in the community room. Great rainy day hang out...very cozy. 

If you were wondering what meals are like here on the Camino, we will try to explain.  We both have lost weight but its not from lack of food. 

 Breakfast is fresh baguette, jam, coffee, tea, and weak juice...every single damn day.  We never have butter or margarine on the table which is surprising since the Spanish fry almost everything on the menu for lunch & dinner.  If we have a refrigerator in the community rooms or hotels then we buy yogurt and fresh juice. We buy fresh fruit everyday from the markets. 

Lunch:  we eat picnic style on the trail. Usually we pack croissants, cheese and fresh fruit. Snacks on the trail are granola bars (difficult to find in the stores), M&Ms,  KitKat bars or Oreos if we can find them in the markets. We needed to add the kcal and fast energy to our diet because we were losing to much weight. Now don't you wish you were here with us!

Dinner:  Usually by 7:00 PM we are starving.  The Spanish eat dinner later than Americans--usually 9-10 pm. But Pilgrim dinners are available after 6pm.  When we are on the Camino we usually go out with a group of  our roommates pilgrims to a "Pilgrim's Dinner". This is a special menu only for pilgrims offered by the local restaurants and bars. Dinner is served with wine, beer or water.  They usually give you a pitcher of wine. You get a large amount of good food for only 9-13€  or $13-$18.  It's a 3 course dinner with a choice of 3-5 selections for each course. Starters area choice of a huge salad, or pasta, or soup or  bean/lentil dish.     The main course offers a beef, pork, chicken and fish dish.  Desert offerings are flan, ice cream, rice pudding or fruit. 

Some of the hostels have full kitchens and we have seen pilgrims making their dinner to save dinero. Last night we decided to make our own pasta dinner at "home". We walked to the grocery store, met up with Terry (Canada) and invited him to share our dinner. He bought the wine, dessert and sauce. We bought the baguette (warm from the oven), pasta, tomatoes, etc to make a vegetable rigatoni. 

As we were cooking we met a nice couple from Australia. We shared fresh vegetables and all ate together in the community room. Aside from the struggle to politely share one 4 burner stove with other pilgrims from China & England, it was really fun!  Shopping & cooking only works if you are not exhausted from a long trek that day and the hostel has a big fully equipped kitchen. We think we will take advantage of this shared dinner preparation when the situation is right. 

Dinner last night

Day #17. La Virgen del Camino. 9/26/2013

In Leon at Plaza San Marcos, there is a bronze statue of a medieval pilgrim resting and reflecting on the Camino. 

We left Leon at 8:45 am and started our 5.5 mile walk. We slept in because we had a very nice hotel and not far to travel. Usually pilgrim don't sleep in at  Hostels because the dormitories sound like a beehive at 6:00am.  Everyone wants to start their walk while it's cool weather.  Also you want to arrive at your next hostel by noon-1:00 to make sure you get a bunk. Last night we stayed at Hotel Alfonso V (www.hotelalfonsov.com).  

Today's walk was through an industrial and commercial area. We were next to roads and walking on pavement tiles the entire time. It wasn't very nice. 

This hostel is private & called D. Antonino y Dia Cinia. Its the only pilgrim hostel in town. The next one is 8.5 miles away. There are 20 beds in our dormitory, two dormitories,  4 showers and 3 toilets in two bathrooms with separate guys/girls bathrooms. ( I really hate coed bathrooms.)  It's very clean. There is a large community room and kitchen. I would rate this a 3 out of 5 star hostel. It would earn a better Force Rating except for the 20 beds in a room. 

Yesterday in Leon we happened upon a group of Spaniards playing guitar, tambourine and the 'bones' in the main city square.

Woman playing 'Bones'. She had a heavy pick that she dragged over the bones to make a drumming sound for a base beat

They must have been playing folk songs because all the Spanish locals were singing along with the musicians.  It was very lively and happy music. Robin Nott would have jumped right in to join the band!  'Taily-Bones' with real bones!  

Hotel Parador:  this building was converted from an old pilgrim hospital of the 12th century, then later turned into a Monastery, now a fancy hotel.  The pilgrim statue sits in front of this building and he is staring at this hotel probably wishing he was staying there tonight. 

Hostel dorm

Community room at this hostel.